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Cap Juluca was one of our very first Caribbean jaunts back in 2001. Apprehensive at first at staying at a “resort,” which we swore off we wouldn’t do, we found ourselves here after accolades from Conde Nast Traveler, Travel & Leisure UK, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report et al. Aside from the multiple transfers to reach this idyllic, stand-alone, locale off Saint Maarten from a private boat launch and upon arriving found ourselves surrounded by the same passengers/people we were trying to leave in NY. They (CP Staff) rounded us up in small groups and whisked us into their lounge for a rum swizzle.

I must say this resort with its moorish, Iberian details is architecturally pleasing to the eye, but the atmosphere was a bit disappointing. In a one bedroom villa, we managed to get some rest, but again the layout of the property felt more like a glorified, Disney-esque, catered affair, than the unique, transporting experience we typically find when on holiday. Their service gets high marks, but come on? We want privacy, peace and tranquility. We just left a life of hurried, rushed, everything. Why would we want to surround ourselves by the very same people, even if dinner and dancing are on par every evening. After a few days, we requested that all meals be taken in-house and moved farther afield from the action.

Of course, a lot of honeymooners were visiting, which made us all the more reclusive. Discretion and privacy are not on everyone’s “should-do” list, so we took a few tours outside the gated walls of Cap Juluca and witnessed what most travelers probably see when venturing outside the comfort zone of the premises.

Running chickens/roosters; locals enjoying the sunny weather; loitering; town villages full of vibrancy away from the polished gated, “massed-produced,” entertainment. It’s funny because as much as we enjoy the luxury of the resort and convenience, it didn’t feel authentic. Why should patrons – though premiums are paid – see a false sense of the island when literally outside the gates lie the real Anguilla and peoples whom all should immerse and feel proud. Too many times, these high-end resorts neglect to offer or share that sense that we are, indeed on another island. Not on a Westernized version which casts all things native and local.

Perhaps we will return and experience something other than what we would typically find on most resorts.

Updated 11Jan08